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I really enjoy putting together this monthly feature, opening the archives from a decade back to see what I did and saw. I just happened to walk past South Street Seaport that morning and caught Lettie G. Howard returning from repairs in Maine. See more from the set here. She turned 130 in the Great Lakes this year.
The 1977 McAllister Sisters continues to carry that only name she’s ever had. Two changes, though, are she’s lost the upper wheelhouse and she’s moved to Baltimore.
It’s the time of year for clamming in the sixth boro. I’ve not seen Dutch Girl yet this year, although I believe I spotted Eastern Welder . . . the nearer boat.
The 1997 Ever Decent was scrapped in Alang in 2020; the 2012 Evening Star has become Jordan Rose and continues to operate through the sixth boro.
This Mount Saline in Port Newark has been replenished several times, and its granules may have kept you safely on the road.
The 1963 Crow, high in the water here, would never again move on its own power and was scrapped in 2015.
These two Thornton boats–Gage Paul and Bros— are gone as well, one scrapped and one growing into undersea habitat deep in a Caribbean trench and will likely never be seen again.
The 1951 Twin Tube here squeezes in between the pier and Balder as Balder discharges more Chilean salt. More on the surprising contents of Balder‘s belly here. She may now be laid up as Ventura in West Africa. Check out the harbor supply boat on her mission that day here. Twin Tube continues to operate in the boro.
I don’t know what has become of the 1954 Ticonderoga; she may still be behind Prall’s Island.
I don’t have any updates on this government boat, said to date from 1929.
The 1966 Patrick Sky has long left the boro. Summit Europe is now Myra and is anchored near Istanbul. Indeed, the sixth boro is connected to the rest of the watery parts of the planet.
If you want to breeze back through the entire month, click here. And I do hope you enjoy these glances in the rearview as much as I do.
Happy December.
March 2009 . . . Stephen Scott here passes Port Ivory, near my old job, pushing RTC 70. I’m still looking for Stephen Scott photo is her new profile, sans upper wheelhouse. Port Ivory was an intriguing place name for me when I first moved here; once a North Shore Branch of the SIRR even had a station there.
Kimberly Poling already had the color scheme, but adding a few more teal stripes to her current appearance is a big improvement.
Lettie passed by once while I scheduled my lunch break. As of today’s posting, Lettie G is in Mobile AL!! If she continues, she could end up back in Lake Erie by way of the great loop. Is that what’s happening? A few months I caught her at the top end of the Welland Canal here.
More Port Ivory area, Specialist was around, then called Specialist II.
So was the huge K-Sea fleet, which included Falcon.
This post should be called “sixth boro and beyond,” since I took this photo of Justine with RTC 120 up near Saugerties. Back then,
was that a red canoe along her portside rail?
Side by side in the Rondout 10 years ago were Hackensack, the 1953 colorful one, and Petersburg, 1954 vintage and still in the general area. Last I knew, Hackensack was in Guyana pushing molasses barges.
And going farther out, it’s Allie B pulling Goliath on a cargo barge Brooklyn Bridge out of Quincy MA, with assistance from Vincent D. Tibbetts Jr and Justice.
Here’s a closer up of Liberty. For the entire reportage on that journey to Mangalia, Romania (!!), click here. Damen operates the crane in their shipyard there, the largest shipyard in the Damen collection.
All photos by Will Van Dorp, who hopes you enjoy these looks back as much as I do.
Besides the title, you might place this photo by the background. It was the focus of this post from about six weeks ago.
I returned to Port Colborne because I wanted to spend more time. All vessels traveling between the upper four Lakes and Ontario/St Lawrence Seaway must traverse here. And an alarm on Bridge No. 21 notifies that traffic will pass in a few minutes from the sound.
In the case of today’s post, however, I was caught between a need to head back across the border and a compulsion to see the vessel about to enter town from Lake Erie.
A schooner.
Leftmost flag on the crosstrees tells the tale.
It’s Lettie G. Howard, homeward bound and beyond. For now, after a summer of sailing and sail training on Lake Erie, Lettie was headed to New York via the Saint Lawrence/Nova Scotia.
As she came into the dock, cold rain starting to fall and hint of winter, the crew tied her up with skill and aplomb to wait for timing.
Fair winds and warm days.
All photos by Will Van Dorp.
Here was Summer Sail 1; and since that dates from almost two years ago.
Clipper City looks great juxtaposed against the skyline, but
ketch Catriona . . . she has Herreshoff pedigree.
No matter . . . larger schooner or smaller and more intimate ketch,
one is pampered moving by sail in the sixth boro. And that includes the option of sailing aboard the oldest harbor schooner of all . . . Pioneer.
Above and below, it’s Pioneer, and below the other schooner is one you won’t see in the sixth boro for a few years . . . Lettie G. Howard. Of course, if you head over to Lake Erie–where I’ll be n a few weeks–you may catch a glimpse, even catch a ride.
And finishing it off, it’s America 2.0.
All photos taken by Will Van Dorp in the past 365 days.
All photos today I took in May and early June of 2008. Odin, configured this was in 1982, is now known as Jutte Cenac, after considerable reconfiguration. You’d no longer look twice at her now, as you would back then.
Scotty Sky, the Blount-built tanker launched in 1960, was rendered obsolete on January 1, 2015 by OPA 90, and now calls the Caribbean home.
When I took this photo along the South Brooklyn docks, I had no idea that it was to become the Brookfield Place ferry terminal.
I had no idea until looking this up that Joan McAllister is the current Nathan G.
Juliet Reinauer now works as Big Jake.
For Lettie G Howard, another decade is somewhat insignificant, given that it’s been afloat since 1893. Currently she’s sailing up the St. Lawrence bound for Lake Erie. The NJ shoreline there has changed quite a bit, beginning with the removal of the Hess tanks there around 2014.
Crow was scrapped in 2015. I caught her last ride powered by Emily Ann here (and scroll) in May 2014.
And finally, back in 2008, this living fossil was still hard at work,
gainfully plying the Hudson. This Kristin was scrapped sometime in 2012.
All photos taken in late spring 2008 by Will Van Dorp.
Recall that “fifth dimension” is my code for the time travel series; call it history if you wish.
In 1968–50 fast years ago!!– Mon Lei, which transited the harbor last weekend, was more of a presence. All photos here come from Steve Munoz, who writes: “I saw your post and remembered seeing a Chinese junk at the South Seaport in June 1968, and I looked at my pics, which were originally slides. I was on the tug Dalzelleagle (1958 and now McAllister Brothers) with my uncle Bob Munoz, captain and pilot with McAllister. We had some time between jobs so we walked over to the Mon Lei and the people on the boat let us go aboard and inside to take a look. If I remember correctly, the boat was built in Hong Kong around 1895. The interior was beautifully hand-carved mahogany, but very musty smell. You will also see the USCG sail vessel Eagle at seaport pier. I did not know that Mon Lei was still around.”
Another reader of Monday’s post wrote: ” I boat-sat her for one week in maybe the winter of 87-88. Was bitter cold and she was wintering at the late great Pier 15 [pictured above and below]. Normally she lived at the E 23rd St. marina, but some construction was going on there. Alan York was traveling on business, so I looked after her. The interior was nothing short of a fantasy world of Asian carving and ornamentation. One friend described it as a “floating fornicatorium.” Also a nice comfy oil burner for heat. I remember he was scouring the world for new bamboo of a certain kind for her sail battens. Quite the gentleman.”
If you didn’t look at this link previously, see it now for some interior shots.
I’m curious about the two vessels alongside the pier in the lower right.
Continuing here with photos from Steve, below is the future that never was . . . NS Savannah passing Ellis Island (onion domes) bound for sea. It was June 1968, almost exactly a half century ago for all these photos.
Back when some tugboats had eagles atop their wheelhouses . . . this was Steve’s Uncle Bob at the helm. A few years ago, I recall seeing one of McAllister’s boats with a plastic dinosaur atop the wheelhouse for a while. I’ll have to look for the photo.
On a different note, here’s a photo by Elizabeth Wood taken in 2005 of Lettie G. Howard along the Brooklynside of the Upper Bay. Lettie G., built in 1893 (125 years ago, making her as old or even older than Mon Lei, depending on which story you believe. for all you readers downcast of me, Lettie G. departed the Hudson River around 0700 today, heading for Lake Erie via Gloucester and Nova Scotia. She is on AIS. Nelson, Joey, Mac, Jack, Marc, Brenda, Jake, Barry . . . you know who you are. I hope to see Lettie G. on Lake Erie this summer; I hope you do too.
Thanks to Steve and Elizabeth for use of these photos.
“A butterfly among moths” flitted past lower Manhattan yesterday, northbound on the North River, albeit a butterfly that hadn’t yet fully shed its cocoon.
“The boat has a colorful history, beginning as a small trading vessel along the South China coast. It reputedly once belonged to a Chinese warlord who had to sell it in haste to flee the country. Believe it or not, Robert Ripley purchased it in 1946 and owned it until he died… It was sailed across the Pacific Ocean in 1939 and then to the East Coast the following year.” All that was written here in 1985. Mon Lei is not to be confused with a junk called Free China.
Maybe she flitted as a butterfly in my mind, but yesterday Mon Lei was being towed. I should have gotten this photo without the excursion boat in the distance.
I had forgotten that the bow was squared off until I returned to my post from that year.
It’s truly unique, and I hope it doesn’t berth too far upstream because
I’d love to see it again, sans shrink-wrap and with junk-rig sails set on all three masts. Here’s a long article from 2017 with black-and-white photos from the distant past, including one with the unique Robert Ripley playing mahjong, believe it or not.
Here’s another unique sailing vessel of the sixth boro, Lettie G. Howard. And if you don’t see it in the next day and a half, you won’t see it in New York any time soon, as it heads west by sailing east: Lake Erie bound by way of Nova Scotia and the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. Maybe my friends along the way will get photos of her. The Seaway and its locks might provide good opportunities for photos.
And to round out this post, here’s a Nautor Swan for sale, currently tied up in North Cove. At a bit over $1.6 million, it could be yours, or mine, or someone else’s.
Like a RORO and a tanker that have appeared here before, Tugela is named for a South African river.
Quite the mast!
Finally, not the same black hulled sailboat, it entered the Upper Bay last week passing the Quarantine Station. Anyone know if a facility by that name exists there today?
All photos by Will Van Dorp, who should take walks around the land’s edge every weekend.
Here’s Mon Lei‘s homepage. Somewhere (?) I recall seeing photos of her in the 1976 bicentennial harbor muster. Also, not surprisingly, bowsprite dabbled with junk for a time.
Unrelated: Here’s a voyaging sailboat from the Philippines.
Ken came up with additional photos of his overnight in the transient slip at South Street Seaport Museum many years ago . . . so here they are. Note the Twin Towers in the background. To the right side of the photo, I’m guessing that’s a mastless Lettie G. Howard and Major General William H. Hart, now languishing along the Arthur Kill.
Here’s a close up of the stick lighter, identified by eastriver as Vernie S.
Russell Grinell, among other things, was an owner of schooner Pioneer before she came to SSSM.
Here’s Black Pearl in the foreground, with a respectable looking eagle’s figurehead.
And finally, this might be the stern of Anna Christina, which sank in the “perfect storm” as mentioned in this NYTimes article.
Again, many thanks to Ken Deeley for bringing these photos he took from the transient dock several decades ago to the light. One of my tugster goals is to publish photos like these, bringing them into the “creative commons.”
Who else greeted Wavertree on the rest of the way home? John J. Harvey is always in on celebrations.
Lettie G. Howard was there,
as was the helicopter. Feehan presented herself on the far side of Rae.
Pioneer accounted for
herself with crew in the crosstrees.
Pioneer and Lettie teamed up at times.
Wire showed up.
New York Harbor School had two boats there, including Privateer and their
newest vessel Virginia Maitland Sachs, about which I’ll post soon.
Melvillian throngs came down to the “extremest limit of land” on Pier 15 and 16, for one reason or another, but who were about to be treated to some excellent ship handling.
Rae took the lead, showing the need for tugboats of all sizes.
The larger tugs pushed and pulled as needed to ease into the slip
until all lines were fast and
and the shoreside work needed doing.
Bravo to all involved. If you want to take part in a toast to Wavertree, you can buy tickets here for the September 29 evening.
If you haven’t read the NYTimes article by James Barron yet, click here.
All photos by Will Van Dorp, who hopes I left no one out and who as before is grateful to the South Street Seaport Museum and the photographers’ boat provided by US Merchant Marine Academy and crewed by a set of dedicated cadets.
Often folks ask how one can learn about the harbor or is there a book about the sixth boro. Volunteering at South Street Seaport Museum is a great way available to all to get access to the water, to learn from like-minded folks, and to start on a journey of reading the harbor and its traffic for yourself. Each volunteer’s journey will be unique, and willing hands make institutions like this museum survive and thrive.
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