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Here’s the engine order telegraph and a bit of uniform. Guess the vessel? Doubleclick enlarges fotos.
And a closeup of the topsail furling system of Etoile, one of the French schooners.
And the guard of the passerelle.
From the bridge deck of Argus, looking over the stern and toward the west . . . Governors Island and New Jersey beyond. Along the horizon near the south tip of Governors Island . . . those are the cranes of Bayonne and even fainter beyond that Port Elizabeth.
Here’s the view from the forward positioned bridge. Back in 2007 I caught these fotos of Oslo Express, the only bridge-forward container vessel I can recall seeing in the sixth boro.
Here’s a bit more info on Argus. My tour guide and globalsecurity.org describe Argus as the only vessel in the world to have a CT scanner. As it turns out, she also has a cat. This is Simon, and yes . . . Simon went off duty decades ago, but his healing presence in the hospital lives on. More sobering, Argus has patient monitors that allow patients to have a chance to survive IED-caused triple amputations.
Nearing dusk, yesterday afternoon . . . the Brooklyn vessels as seen from the water: stern of Seneca, Shirane, the French Belle Poule and Etoile, and Cuauhtemoc.
Which brings me back to the Mexican ship. Some of the cadets I spoke with finally explained this flag . . . it’s the captain’s personal flag . . . personal pirate flag, actually is what the cadet said.
I thought you spelled it “okracoke,” as in cherry coke,” caffeinated but slightly more viscous and less fruity, she said.
Names and spelling change less frequently than shoals and shorelines. Local Indians called the place “wokokkon” and who knows what Verrazano and Raleigh called it. And Blackbeard . . . people originally called him Captain Drummond before he took on a string of noms de corsair.
I photographed this 1970 National Geographic map where it was posted aboard ferry Carteret, since it shows my birthplace (Belhaven) and its proximity to both inlets at Ocracoke and Hatteras. My father had imagined buying farmland inland from Swan Quarter; now I’m thinking it’s a place for me to retire, whenever that becomes possible.
The yellow pickup on the foredeck carries a supply of wheel chocks. Intermodal shipping with trucks on decks: bowsprite should love this.
Note the two-floor passenger cabin. Carteret was launched from Halter Equitable, the same yard that launched the sixth boro’s tug Aegean Sea and ferries Barberi and Newhouse.
We traveled from the north end of Ocracole to Hatteras aboard Croatoan. Note the Fedex truck.
As we crossed Hatteras Inlet, we saw three small fishing boats inbound
New England lobster boats, although these “banks” boat have less beam, sharp chines, and smaller houses.
Midpoint in the trip between Ocracoke and Hatteras we were tailed by small fishing boats and
Let’s call it quits here. More “road fotos” tomorrow.
All fotos here by Will Van Dorp.
Meanwhile, unrelated, how long do you imagine a powerboat would take between Hatteras and NYC? Your guess? Now watch this youtube on the consumption of 600 gallons of fuel.
Unrelated: What happened to the vessel recently removed from the James River ghost fleet? Read about it here.
And finally, here from Robert of Oil-Electric is an article about last summer’s whales … and an elephant, ladybug, and rails.
Digging requires claws. Claws inspire primal dread. Dredge machines seem beclawed in groteque ways. And they’re huge, like the ape that scrambled up the Empire State building. I waited long but in vain to line up these talons and the tower in the distance, but I’m sure you can visualize the effect. Imagine the headline: dredge machine grapples its way as the large ape did first in 1933. Please keep those climbing beasts sequested in the southern Upper Bay of the sixth boro … or farther.
Call it ooze, mud, or fluff … no matter. Ick! Dispose of it please, Captain D.
It spatters when it ends its route from bottom of the harbor to bottom of the scow.
I’d be very nervous walking there. I know it’s safe, but irrational fears–like ones that make you run in the dark or for me swim quick in dark, deep water–would surface with me cause me to look up.
How many cubic miles of bottom have been removed in the
past century of pantagruelish bottom removal?
Some years back I wrote about a dredger off Jones Beach here, which I was reminded of when I heard the dredger Vespucci was troubled by pirates off Cameroon (my home from 1975–7, last of my Peace Corps years). See another article here. How dare these pirates . . . I guess they don’t have my dredgerphobias.
All fotos by Will Van Dorp, who understands the efficacy, sometimes, of claws and other grotesqueries.
Staging this burlesque is barquentine Gazela, whose first life fishing for cod continued until the year Armstrong stepped onto the moon. Yessir, this fine vessel served as a dory boat until 1969!
Daytime tours of Gazela as well as nighttime entertainment can be had only through this weekend! This is also the last chance (for a while) to see Mary Whalen at Pier 11. For directions to Pier 11, click here.
So I went to the show “The Seven Deadly Seas” the other night. Before the show, the devil’s advocate (of the Flaming Cherries) emerges from the nether portions of the ship, and
the city darkens as the band begins to play. See the twinkling Manhattan lights off in the distance.
Feisty bawds dueling over everything
can be charmed only by
and more dancing and
still more dancing that sometimes lead to … lost clothing.
Come learn the story of Calico Jack, who imagined he had all the skills needed to thrive on Wall Street.
Bring a dozen friends and make it the most memorable night of the summer, the summer of Atlantic Basin as prime offshore Broadway.
Will Calico Jack swing here, or is it Camp Butner FCC for him?
Fotos by Eric Lorgus (some taken in Philadephia) and Will Van Dorp.
Can you guess the connection between the three fotos that follow? Gazela –540 hp, the oldest wooden square-rigger sailing in the United States, built in Portugal in 1901 (?) to fish cod, and Philadelphia’s tall ship.
Pati R. Moran, 5100 hp and built in Maine in 2007
and “pirate Calico Jack, who, unbeknownst to his crew, has decided toget out of the pirate business, and has sailed to Wall Street to make some business deals, secure a401k, and plan his retirement.”
Once more, Gazela,
Bringing Gazela and crew/acting troupe to Atlantic Basin is the result of hard work of PortSide NewYork. ”About bringing her to NYC, Eric Lorgus, President of Gazela, had this to say, ‘Tall ships have found it increasinglyhard to visit this place, and I’ve been trying to crack NYC foryears. We really appreciate the efforts PortSide has made on ourbehalf. Carolina herself has pursued this will tenacity and zeal.’
Carolina Salguero, Director of PortSide NewYork says about the visit ‘PortSide was founded to bring the BlueSpace, or the waterpart of the waterfront, to life in New York City. We are excited that Gazela is coming, because tall ships are education and inspiration afloat. We hope her visit opens the door to more visits by more boats—of all types—at this pier and other piers.We are encouraged by recent government initiatives focusing onthe water itself and grateful that the EDC [New York City Economic Development Corp] has made Pier 11 available to us for Gazela’s visit.’
Gazela will be open for deck tours during the day. These arerun on an open-house basis. To defray costs of the trip, a modest $5 donation is being requested, but is not mandatory. The cabaretalso subsidizes the trip.”
As to the connection between Gazela and Pati R., I’m leaving that open to your guesses for a few days yet.
See press release here. Show dates are August 19–22, 8 pm and 10 pm shows, for a total of eight shows.
Fotos 1, 2, 4, 5, and 7 by Will Van Dorp. Show fotos are compliments of Peter Gaffney of Cabaret Red Light.
Coney Island has such a distinct culture that the sixth boro (the watery parts between the five terra-boros) should just annex it.
Very introductory but fascinating history of Coney’s evolution can be had in these short articles by Lisa Iannucci, Jeffrey Stanton, and Laurence Aurbach Jr. One theme of these articles is that Coney has a rich history of inverting the genteel norms, entertaining rather than uplifting, dissolving the distinction between audience and performer, and (for a holiday) legitimizing some folks’ ideas of the illegitimate. (Some of those phrases come from the lecture by Goeff Zylstra recently at Alongtheshore.) It sounds like the alongshore of Coney makes a candidate for the capital of the sixth boro, and the Mermaid Parade its official holiday.
May these few fotos whet your appetite! Doubleclick enlarges. More tomorrow. I took this foto almost immediately after arriving yesterday, and I was so happy I could have gone home satisfied. Mermaids exude such grace!
Dick Zigun, mayor of Coney, leads off the 20th annual parade. Thanks for ALL your efforts, Dick and crew. Oceans of appreciation to all the performers!
Fun for all ages, youngsters
of all ages: THIS is the circus that has come to Coney.
Beplumed posteriors and
profiles, they have given me a smile I can’t erase for days, months even.
Those black smudges . . . yeah, the parade did have its dirty parts, but for that, your patience until tomorrow is required.
All fotos by Will Van Dorp.
More on the iPatch later. For now, can you identify this foto from the bridge of a self-described flagship? Clues lurk. I had a tour aboard this morning from G, a biology teacher (among other things) from Brazil. Notice the glass container below the gauge mounted on the window pillar.
The flag is Tibet, and the globe . . . a gift from the Dalai Lama.
The hull of this repurposed ex-Scottish Fisheries Protection Vessel (FPV) Westra is painted black. Dimensions are 196′ x 36′ x 14′, capable of 16.5 kts, layover in the sixth boro until Saturday on a voyage that has seen such stops as Pitcairn Island and the Galapagos.
It’s Steve Irwin, flagship of
Tours run daily from 10 until 3. Fundraiser Friday night . . . details here. Here’s the letter of support from the Dalai Lama. Izod logo just happens to be at the end of the pier, but –hey–maybe they’re supporters too.
Click here for a report on the loss of a portion of the Sea Shepherd fleet–Ady Gil– on January 7, 2010. A Sea Shepherd hero is Henry Morgan, privateer, who fought fire with fire, or piracy with piracy.
All fotos, Will Van Dorp.
For an update on Captain Bethune of Ady Gil, now called a political prisoner of the Japanese, click here.
iPatch . . . just a thought, a name I hereby coin. This is my vision of a new miracle product by the folks who brought us iMac, iPod, iPhone, and iPad . . . the iPatch . . . a hightech gadget–a panacea, if you will–that will restore balance between the species, mutual respect among the peoples of the earth, rid the seas of pirates and plastic patches, . . . what else . . ..
Uhhh . . . Johnny Depp’s pirate ship?
No matter how the two names get mangled by anglophone mouths on VHF, how they’re written is Jeanne d’Arc (like the girl general). She’s a R97, French cruiser nearing retirement at 50. To put that into perspective, when she was launched, Charles DeGaulle was President of France. Although scheduled to retire this year, Jeanne d’Arc is no slouch; almost exactly two years ago, she was involved in the recapture of the three-masted, nearly 300′ loa yacht Le Ponant from Somali pirates.
To reflect pronunciation, call her John Dark . . . . Jane Dark even, if you want to be technical. Along with her is Courbet, stealth frigate F712. I thought she was named for the painter, but –instead–her namesake is a French admiral of sea/river battles referred to as the Sino-French War, fighting along the coast in places like Gulf of Tonkin and the eastern China coast off places like Ningbo and the Pescadores Islands.
Like “John Dark,” “Coor Bay” has also tangled with Somali pirates. In September 2008, F712 recaptured French yacht Carré d’As IV from pirates as they headed with it and two hostages into Eyl, which was featured on tugster around that time. The deck gun here is a 100mm GIAT; compare with the 76mm Otobreda depicted in the blog with the best maritime drawings in the world, IMHO.
John Dark and Coor Bay are here in peace; let’s celebrate them.. If you see a French sailor around town today, wearing a uniform like
like these, smile . . . or say something like “sa leeeeooo” or “bein’ ve new” as they gallivant bit around our fair city on R n R.
All fotos by Will Van Dorp. They were taken in somehow appropriate twilight.
Unrelated but also involving a sidekick: Jodie Nelson and escort.
Also unrelated though similar, see the blog of USCGC Escanaba here.
Back home in the sixth boro! I would have liked to stay longer in New England, wanted to see much more of the places around the Merrimack where I spent almost 15 years, but . . . nose away from the perfumes of fish and brine, eyes away from of beautiful colors of the salt marsh and onto the bright hues and hieroglyphics of large ships’ hull. (Hmm . . . has Bowsprite been doodling art shapes on this hull?)
Here my new language is familiar, like . . . uh . .
well . . . Amy C McAllister to starboard escorting
(exactly . . it was on the tip of my tongue) Sealand Michigan out to sea while
Marjorie B. McAllister shadows to port.
Sealand Michigan, full frontally resembles a seabird, not unlike
the one that glides alongbehind as she passes Romer Shoal Light.
All fotos by Will Van Dorp.
Two unrelated notes: I have many more fotos from the Trip to Gloucester and beyond to post in days to come.
And, if you need an antidote to the blues, go see the movie called Pirate Radio. Here’s a trailer with some good upbeat music. There once was a Dutch pirate radio on Veronica here and another on Silvretta here. And many many more.