Sailing into Cagliari de Sardinia one evening, over 20 yrs ago. Passing the down-at-the-heels Italian Coast Guard dock; scattered and chockablock with tough, serviceable and VERY well-worn boats for buoy tending, utility and rescue: somewhat like passing through Mariners Harbor past the McAllister dock.

Further up the harbor and turning to starboard for the Customs dock, passing the Finanza docks to port. Here, a bows-out string of six vessels of about 100 ft or so, prim and proper, blindingly-white mooring lines, each one clearly of Italian design and looking like they were doing 50 kts or so standing still, bow guns decently sheathed. And it was laundry day! Just as dressing ship with signal flags, each was festooned with briefs first, boxers next, and T-shirts finally, from break-of-the-bow to mast truck to stern rail, taut and neat.

Almost ordered the flag dipped in salute.

Chatting with Customs later: “Smuggling is a national passion… They are the most feared people in the nation…”